The ELLE Guide to the Algarve: Limestone Cliffs, White Sand Beaches, and Fresh Seafood
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“Hey, New York!” called out my Algarve boat tour operator, pointing across the blue-green water to the clifftop Fortress of Sagres, one of the westernmost points in Europe. “You could leave from there and go all the way home!” My only thought was, Why would I ever want to do that?
Straight shot or no, the sunny Algarve offers many enticing reasons to visit and few to leave. Its beaches—stretching along the southern coast of Portugal roughly from Sagres to the border with Spain—are the biggest draw. Praia da Falésia, with five miles of white sand and turquoise water set against ochre-colored cliffs, and Praia de Marinha, featuring dramatic natural arches and rock formations, are among the world’s best.
AdvertisementAdvertisement#«R44ekkr8lb2m7nfddbH1» iframe AdvertisementAdvertisement#«R84ekkr8lb2m7nfddbH1» iframeBut if you can pry yourself away from the sand, there is much more to discover in the Algarve’s fishing villages, laid-back surfing spots, and traditional towns in the Monchique mountains. Happily, I was visiting to test out a car well-suited for exploring: the new 2025 Lexus RZ, an all-electric SUV.
Courtesy of LexusWith a stronger battery and longer range than previous models, the RZ lets you wander off the beaten path with confidence. Noise and vibration have been minimized for a super comfortable ride. But above all, the RZ is designed to be fun to drive. (The RZ 550e F SPORT model even comes with “interactive manual drive,” which evokes the satisfying old-school feeling of gear shifting, with zero risk of gear grinding.)
Since I’m the type of traveler who will visit six different villages in search of the prettiest church and the tastiest pastel de nata, having such a stress-free ride came in handy. Come sit shotgun and explore what to see, eat, and drink, and where to stay, on a trip to the Algarve.
What to See
Benagil Cave
tommypiconeStrong Atlantic Ocean tides, splashing against limestone cliffs for millions of years, helped give this region its distinctive grottos, many reachable only by sea. Benagil Cave, with its circular opening that calls to mind Rome’s Pantheon, is perhaps the most breathtaking. You can join a boat tour from Benagil, a cute fishing village, or nearby towns including Albufeira or Portimão. But the cave is perhaps best experienced closer to nature with a kayak or SUP rental—it’s an easy paddle from nearby Praia de Benagil to a once-in-a-lifetime sight.
Vilamoura
Valter JacintoThe high-end resort area of Vilamoura is among the most fashionable in the Algarve, boasting five world-class golf courses (with ocean views, natch) and a popular casino. At the center of it all is the largest marina in Portugal, where you can dine by the water, buy souvenirs at luxury boutiques, or just window-shop for a superyacht. After hours, the marina’s bars and nightclubs are the place to be seen.
Tavira
alanphillipsAdvertisementAdvertisement#«R4kekkr8lb2m7nfddbH1» iframe AdvertisementAdvertisement#«R8kekkr8lb2m7nfddbH1» iframe With its cobblestoned streets, peaceful squares, and rich history, Tavira is arguably the most charming village in the Algarve. The architecture here shows the lasting influence of a Moorish occupation in the Middle Ages. You won’t want to miss the semi-ruined medieval Castle of Tavira (said to be haunted by an enchanted Moorish maiden), which has a colorful garden and views of the rooftops and sea from its walls. The arched Roman Bridge that spans the Gilão River is, as it turns out, not Roman at all—but it remains a romantic symbol of the town, and is particularly swoony when illuminated at night.
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Where to Eat
The Bold Octopus
Andre Pires SantosAdvertisementAdvertisement#«R56ekkr8lb2m7nfddbH1» iframe AdvertisementAdvertisement#«R96ekkr8lb2m7nfddbH1» iframe You can’t get closer to the beach than The Bold Octopus, located on the white sands of Praia do Ancão in Almancil, within the stunning Ria Formosa Natural Park. Fresh seafood is on the menu, of course, served grilled whole or in globally influenced recipes like cod tacos with a chermoula marinade or seared tuna tataki. Head to the roof for cocktails, live music, and 360-degree views you won’t forget.
Botânico
Courtesy BotânicoIf The Bold Octopus provides the surf, its sister restaurant, Botânico, brings the turf. In the hills near Loulé, the friendly wait staff serves wood-fired steaks on a magical lantern-lit terrace, or, during colder months, indoors in the cozy fire-lit dining room. The desserts, some featuring local oranges and honeycomb, are not to be missed—ask for extra spoons.
O Tonel
getty imagesThe narrow alley of Augusto da Silva Carvalho in Tavira bewitches visitors with its bougainvillea-covered cafés, shops, street artists, and twinkling fairy lights. Here you will find O Tonel, a well-priced restaurant serving simply prepared Mediterranean and Portuguese dishes like cod papillote with lemon thyme sauce and locally caught octopus on a bed of roasted sweet potatoes, chopped peppers, and olives. This spot is popular for a reason—book ahead.
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Kruz
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Where to Drink
Morgado do Quintão
Courtesy Morgado do QuintãoWith 300 days of sunshine a year, the climate of the Algarve naturally lends itself to winemaking. Just a 15-minute drive transports you from the busy shore to Morgado do Quintão, an idyllic vineyard in the hills near Lagoa with some of the oldest vines in the region. The award-winning winemaker, Joana Maçanita, plays with organic methods and native grapes like Negra Mole to produce wines that taste of sun and salt. The estate also offers a variety of wine experiences, including cooking classes, gastronomy tours, movies under the stars, and daily tastings and meals held family-style under a 2,000 year-old olive tree.
Miramar Gin Bar
Courtesy Pine Cliffs ResortIf the sun is going down in the Algarve, it’s time for a gin and tonic. Portugal raises this simple cocktail to an art form, arriving at your table in bulbous goblets or pint glasses garnished with everything from rosemary sprigs to cardamom pods and local oranges. Popping up this summer, the Miramar Gin Bar—at the exquisite Pine Cliffs Resort in Albufeira, also home of the Mirador Champagne Bar—offers nightly G&Ts with views of the sunset over Praia da Falésia.
Lagos Coffee Shops
Wolfgang KaehlerAdvertisementAdvertisement#«R65ekkr8lb2m7nfddbH1» iframe AdvertisementAdvertisement#«Ra5ekkr8lb2m7nfddbH1» iframe Funky, laid-back Lagos is beloved of surfers and digital nomads alike. There’s a thriving brunch culture here, and the historic center is full of spots with coffee good enough to please the worst snob (along with the fluffy pancakes and açai bowls of your Instagram dreams). The Black and White Coffee Shop is among the best regarded for its strong-but-smooth brew and house-made pastries, including a pastel de nata croissant available only on the weekends that has gathered a bit of a cult following.
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Where to Stay
Viceroy Ombria Algarve
Courtesy Viceroy Ombria AlgarveAdvertisementAdvertisement#«R6nekkr8lb2m7nfddbH1» iframe AdvertisementAdvertisement#«Ranekkr8lb2m7nfddbH1» iframe Less than a year old, the Viceroy Ombria Algarve feels like a centuries-old hilltop village. This unique property features 24 whitewashed buildings around a central tower, clustered together in the mountains about a half-hour drive from the Faro airport. Serenely quiet, the property features four pools and an 18-hole, par-71 golf course. Rooms, suites, and residences celebrate Algarve materials, with tile accents and textured fabrics, and some have furnished terraces, soaking tubs, or even private pools. But it’s the kind touches, like the chic straw fedora you’ll find tucked in the closet, that make the Viceroy truly special.
Vila Vita Parc
Courtesy Vila Vita ParcThe five-star Vila Vita Parc resort and spa in Porches sprawls across 54 acres on the ocean and offers virtually any activity you could imagine, up to and including a private yacht rental. Service is warm and polished, and both families and couples will feel spoiled for choice (and spoiled, period). But the difference maker here may be the food and wine: The resort has 12 excellent restaurants, many tapping local ingredients grown at Vila Vita’s own organic farm and vineyard, Herdade dos Grous. Ocean, led by chef Hans Neuner, has held two Michelin stars since 2011.
Casa Mãe
Courtesy Casa MãeThis sweet boutique hotel in Lagos has a great location within walking distance to the old city and its cafés, galleries, and nightlife. Casa Mãe offers a choice of four buildings, each with its own aesthetic: Boho cabanas have private pools while the main casa, converted from a rescued 19th-century estate, features “refined vintage” vibes with antique furniture and colorful fabric headboards. The casa overlooks the complex’s vegetable garden, and your breakfast eggs come courtesy of the inn’s own chickens.
Charlotte Lace Cami
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Friday Slide
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Beauty Picks
The Uniform Tinted Mineral Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 45
Summer beauty travels are easier when you replace standalone products with hybrid formulas that do more with less. Case in point: Merit’s The Uniform, a tinted mineral sunscreen that protects you from harmful rays while imparting a velvety blur that looks more natural as the day goes on.
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Body Water Mineral-Infused Hair & Body Fragrance Mist
If you prefer your summer scents bright, airy, and citrus-filled, this multi-use hair and body mist leaves a sun-kissed scent trail with you all day.
$35.00 at sephora.com
The Body Wash Concentrate
It’ll be months before you have to re-up on your travel body wash with AKT’s concentrated formula. With just a few drops of water, the rich texture transforms into a creamy lather, emitting a sweet aroma reminiscent of orange pulp on your fingers.
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